By Jennifer Best

Pismo Beach is best known for its long stretch of white sand where salt water "whooshes" sea foam up the gently sloping beach, then "whishes" back out to sea. But not far from the home of the famous Pismo Clam are contemplative coves, bluff-top trails and dynamic tide pools, all off the beaten path.

If you're looking for one of those smaller, private beaches or you're ready to do a little exploring away from the beach and pier crowds, here's a quick guide to the spots Central Coast locals love. Just don't tell them how you found out about them.

Port San Luis, Avila, and Pirate's Cove

We begin our tour at Harford Pier in Port San Luis. Since 1873, this public pier eight miles north of Pismo Pier has been a local favorite. The Port San Luis pier draws fishermen venturing out for the hunt as well as landlubbers seeking to simply purchase fresh fish and crab.

It remains a popular spot for pier fishing, commercial sport fishing, you-pick-'em live crab, a live seafood market and Olde Port Inn, a pier-end restaurant featuring fresh local fare. It's so popular, in fact, that it's really not much of a secret; it draws tourists from around the state as well as Japanese and German families.

"There's just a magnetism here," said Vaudois Handley of Chico, out taking a winter walk on the pier with his wife, Catherine Handley. "The ocean smell, the fishing. It's different."

But for a more local experience, hop back on your bike or into the car and venture a quarter-mile back south on San Luis Bay Drive to Old Port Beach. This lesser-known little stretch of sand nearly disappears at very high tides, but it is a great swimming beach with little or no wave action. Don't expect to catch the Last Great Wave here, but do bring along some hotdogs and firewood for an evening blaze. Fires are permitted in the heavy steel fire rings provided.

The best local beach for small children is another quarter mile back toward Pismo on San Luis Bay Drive: Avila Beach. Avila is one of those "whooshing" beaches with gently sloping sand that encourages waders and young body boarders to venture into the sea. While lifeguards are on duty during summer months, parents should keep an eye on their little ones and weak swimmers should steer clear of waves.

In 2000, this beach and much of its business district underwent a huge renovation that included the construction of a new boardwalk and beachfront park. Some old businesses have already returned, and new stores and restaurants are expected to pop up throughout 2001.

Photo by Jennifer Best
	Pirate's Cove, just south of Avila Beach, looks innocent from afar. Local lore has it the cove got its name during prohibition, when it was supposedly a favorite boat landing spot for rum-runners and bootleggers.

If you're not afraid to take off your skivvies in public, or prefer to do so, venture half a mile up Cave Landing Road to Pirate's Cove. (Take San Luis Bay Drive to Cave Landing Road.) The picturesque cove is well protected from the wind, but not curious onlookers. The waves are ideal for frolicking, but generally too small and shallow for good surfing.

Shell Beach: A Treasure Trove of Coves

It is little wonder many Shell Beach residents like to think of their oceanfront neighborhood as autonomous from Pismo Beach. Though part of the same city, Shell Beach features cove after blessed cove.

Driving to every cove for even a cursory look would take all day. You may instead want to pick out one or two to sample, then bide your time on the others.

Here's a quick rundown of hidden Shell Beach coves, broken up into thoroughly non-scientific categories: Whoosh, Crash, and Trickle. "Whoosh" coves feature largely sandy shores where water glides gently in and out; "Crash" coves are noisier spots where waves crash on or very near the shore or rocky outcroppings; and, "Trickle" coves feature tide pools which are best seen at low tides.

All directions are from Shell Beach Road. Swimming is permitted in all areas and surfing is popular in many of them, but currents can be dangerous and there are no lifeguards on duty.

WHOOSH!

- Silver Shoals is a long, sandy cove that actually runs from public access stairway at The Cliffs all the way north toward Beachcomber (a "crash" cove). This area is very popular among local surfers and is often referred to as "St. Anne's" or "St. Andrews."

"There's less crowds, cleaner water, good waves," said surfer Chad Clark of San Luis Obispo.

Park in the public access spots at The Cliffs, then follow the dirt pathway along the north side of the hotel and down the stairs to the beach.

- Memory Park on Seacliff between Paddock and Baker is a bluff-top park with well-maintained lawn, benches, picnic tables and extremely treacherous access to a small cove. Sea walls protect cliff-top homes from erosion and detract from the beauty of this cove.

- Shelter Cove may be a bit less popular because, unlike many of its local counterparts, this beach faces west with a large cliff at the southern end of the cove blocking more sun. But the quiet cove is a treasure. While the beach may appear to be private, public access is provided via a trail and stairs behind Shelter Cove Lodge.

CRASH!

Photo by Jennifer Best
Fishing off Whaler's Rock, the point that separates Avila Beach and Pirate's Cove.

- Beachcomber beach at the end of Beachcomber St. A paved public path begins here atop bluffs that overlook a rugged shore. Follow the cliff trail down to the tide pools or follow the easy path toward Silver Shoals.

- Spyglass at the corner of Spyglass and Solano streets features a grassy park complete with playground, but beach access is via a hazardous bluff trail down a ravine to a tiny rocky cove. Popular among local surfers.

TRICKLE

- Eldwayen Ocean Park between Palomar and Vista del Mar on Ocean is the one locals don't want to tell you about. The bluff-top park includes benches, picnic tables and barbecues. Stairs lead down to a lovely cove often visited by seals and otters. This is a popular dog-walking beach for residents and includes both sandy stretches and tide pools.

Triple Threat

- Thousand Stairsteps, near the end of Seaview and just down Ocean from Margo Dodd Park, is a beautiful cove that could easily fit into all three categories. Rugged outcroppings of bluff that have yet to crumble under the constant pressure of ocean currents provide great sound effects, scenery and some protection for the sandy beach and its tide pools.

The Dunes Experience

If coves aren't your thing, but neither are crowds, head south on Highway 1 past Pismo Beach, past Oceano State Vehicular Recreation Area. You'll wind up driving through strawberry and lettuce fields.

Just when you think you can't be further from the beach, turn right on Oso Flaco Road and follow it to its end at Oso Flaco Lake. The State Park manages this little dune lake and its boardwalk, which leads to the beach. This stretch of sand is the southern end of the beach over which the Pismo Pier stretches.

For a real out-of-the-way adventure, continue south on Highway 1 and you'll run into the little town of Guadalupe. Stop for a bite of authentic Mexican food at any of a number of wonderful little restaurants here before heading west on Main Street to the Guadalupe Dunes Complex.

Access is through Nature Conservancy property, so donations are requested but not required for entry. Parking is limited.

The beach at Guadalupe Dunes provides excellent surf fishing, wide-open spaces and plenty of sand. It is also often quite windy and swimming is not advisable due to heavy rip currents.

Want more solitude? Hike along the sand to the end of the beach, up Devil's Slide and over Mussel Rock to Paradise Beach. Take plenty of water and give yourself at least one whole day. It's a long, slow, sandy walk...but the ultimate Central Coast beach escape from the crowds.

Just don't tell the locals who told you about it.

Back to the Top

Jennifer Best is a writer, Central Coast native, and new mom who enjoys bringing her baby and husband along on all her hikes.