By Teresa Mariani

Yes, Santa Maria is a farm town, and yes you could call the Santa Maria Valley California's salad bowl. Or vegetable bowl. This is not a town where you can dis' your veggies. Remember when George Bush the elder spoke out against broccoli? Farmers here took it seriously and shipped him a truckload of their best cruciferous greens.

But don't think dining in Santa Maria is a strictly vegetarian experience. Far from it. In plenty of ways, this is still cattle country. Santa Maria is the birthplace of the now-popular "tri-tip" cut of meat, which you can order fresh off barbecue grills all over town. On most menus, beef is king. It's hard to eat anywhere in town that doesn't offer at least a tri-tip sandwich.

But you can just as easily order great carne asada (grilled steak) or camerones al ajo (shrimp cooked in olive oil, for those of you rusty on your high school Spanish). In fact, Santa Maria is one of the best places on the Central Coast to dine on authentic Mexican food.

Santa Maria has also sprouted a healthy crop of national chain restaurants in the last decade, most concentrated along the Highway 101 corridor through town. Red Lobster, the Olive Garden, Marie Callender's, and teen Mecca In-N-Out Burger are just a few of them.

If you're looking for great food at an original restaurant, you still have plenty of choices here. Based on a thoroughly unscientific poll of Central Coast diners, here's a look at the Top 10 Places to Eat in Santa Maria:

1) Chef Rick's Ultimately Fine Foods, 4869 S. Bradley Road, Orcutt (In the Von's shopping center), 805-937-9512. Purists may complain that the Number One ranking isn't fair, given the fact that Chef Rick's is actually in Orcutt, not Santa Maria But the 10-minute drive from downtown Santa Maria won't matter once you taste the food here.

Chef Rick's is simply the best restaurant in Santa Maria - and the whole Santa Maria Valley. In fact, the food here rivals the 'California cuisine' spots in Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Cambria - or even San Francisco or L.A. for that matter. Because of that, Chef Rick Manson is now a local celebrity.

Why is he in Santa Maria? After training on the east coast and cheffing for one of New Orleans' most exclusive hotels, Manson wanted to come to California and open his own restaurant. He pulled out a California map, closed his eyes, and plunked a finger down, so the legend goes. Lucky for the Santa Maria Valley, when he opened his eyes, Manson's digit had landed here.

You will realize exactly how lucky when you try the Cajun Poor Boy Sandwich, the Tortilla Corn Chowder, or any of the specials and salads on the lunch menu. Don't forget to try the cheese-stuffed jalapeno poppers. Chef Rick's is small and the place is crowded for lunch, so try coming early or you'll take your chances. Chef Rick's also caters.

2) Las Cazuelas, 110 S. Lincoln St, No. 105 (in the Town Center West at Broadway and Main), 805-922-5159. Las Cazuelas is a bright, cheery family-owned restaurant with solidly authentic Mexican food. In addition to the usual burritos, tacos and enchiladas, you can also try some more exotic dishes, like the tostadas or tacos Nopalitos, made with strips of marinated cactus. The saltillo tile floors, flower-painted chairs and walls, and magenta bougainvillea cascading outside will bring back memories of Puerto Vallarta for those lucky enough to have made the trip. So will the sunny dining patio out front, sheltered from the persistent sea breeze that blows through the valley. The patio can get downright hot - a welcome rarity for outdoor dining in Santa Maria. Las Cazuelas offers lunch and dinner specials, and has some of the best guacamole anywhere: lumpy, thick, lightly seasoned, hand-mashed avocados. Try the lunch tostada special: three "small" tostadas of any variety. It's a good way to experiment with the Nopalitos while having a familiar tostada de pollo (chicken) or carnitas (pork) to fall back on.

3) Lo Mejor de Jalisco - 116 South Blosser Street, (take Main Street west to Blosser; turn South on Blosser) 805-925-0194. For seafood, Mexican style, this is the place. It's so authentic, most of the other diners will probably be ordering and chatting in Spanish. But Anglos are always welcome too. At lunchtime, Lo Mejor draws a crowd of big shiny brand-new pickup-trucks, and both men and women coming in for the house specialty: the Cocktiél de Cameron - Shrimp Cocktail, Mexican Style. The iced jumbo shrimp come in a glass that looks like a cross between a giant margarita goblet and a fishbowl, complete with a salsa-style sauce. But just about every dish offered at Lo Mejor de Jalisco is delicious.

4) Café Monet, 1555 South Broadway, 805-928-1912. Looking for a nice slice of quiche, a latte and a scone? Head for Café Monet. It's a little slice of New Age espresso heaven smack in the middle of a pretty Western town. At Monet, you can lunch on sandwiches, soup, or salads while listening to World Beat music and gazing around at the works of local artists on display on the walls. The art shows change regularly, so there's always something new. Most pieces are for sale, so you could pick up a great framed photo along with your Linzer Torte.

5) Hudson's Grill, 236 East Betteravia Road (Betteravia and Miller), 805-928-0505. OK, yes, so Hudson's is sort of a chain, at least in Southern California. The handful of Hudson's come complete with the grill and front-end of a classic car bursting through the wall over the bar and dining room. Hudson's was among the first of the Classic '50's style diners to open in the late 1980s, and it's still one of the best. You can't beat the chocolate shakes and a Hudson's burger. The soft chicken tacos there are a nice alternative, though. And what better way to cap off a meal than with a tootsie pop? A great place to go with or without kids.

6) Mariann's, 800 South Broadway, 805-347-2737. Mariann's is a favorite with locals when they're looking for an upscale but not outrageously expensive Italian meal. It's located in the Landmark, a stately white turn-of-the-Century building. You can't miss the giant blue and white awning over the drive in front. With its lace curtains, linen tablecloths and cool interior, it's the perfect place on a hot summer day - or for a sweetly romantic dinner. But you can bring the kids, too - they're welcome and won't be at all out of place.

7) Dino's Deli, 750 East Main Street, (Main and College), 805-925-4438. Yes, a Deli. What a deli. With a name like Dino's you know it has to be Italian. With stacks of imported panettone, pasta, and olive oils, you can stock your kitchen there while you're ordering a meal. At Dino's you can take out or eat in and soak up the deli atmosphere. This place has the best deli sandwiches in town. Try the turkey with avocado or the roast beef with the works - on a French or sourdough roll. Worth every calorie. Dino's also offers hot lunches that vary, from lasagna to meatball sandwiches. Dino's also offers party trays and catering, in case you're thinking of throwing a big bash back at the hotel, or you're traveling with a large and hungry family.

8) Brick's, 112 West Main Street, (back patio on the Town Center West at Broadway and Main), 805-922-3537. Brick's is one of those hometown restaurants with 'local institution' status. It's also a place for hearty 'stick to your ribs' meals: straightforward salads and soups, beef and chicken entrees and sandwiches, and dynamite sides of onion rings and fries. Brick's is true to its name: it's in a restored brick building in Santa Maria's turn-of-the-century downtown. And like neighbor Las Cazuelas, it offers a Santa Maria rarity: a sunny, sheltered dining patio. Brick's brick-walled back patio is just a couple steps from Las Cazuelas' sunny front patio -and another great summer day spot.

9) Central City Broiler, 1520 North Broadway, 805-922-3700. This place is another local institution. It's where the powerful meet to eat. So don't make fun of the guy at the next table in Wranglers and a snap-up shirt; he could be a millionaire lettuce magnate. The restaurant takes its name from the original name of the town of Santa Maria back in the 1800s: Central City. The main thing on the menu here is steak. Lots of it. Grilled and served with salads and good side dishes. It's not exactly formal, but it's a good place to wear your best cowboy boots for a power lunch or dinner, Santa Maria Style.

10) Jack's, Old Orcutt, 156 S. Broadway, Old Orcutt, 805-937-1871. This is a great family place, and another Santa Maria Valley institution. The owner is actually named Bob, not Jack's, but let's not quibble. This is the place to go if your craving comfort food. Jack's does all its own baking, which is why a slice of pie there is such a treat. Puts Marie Callender's to shame. Jack's has large portions, good food, and a devoted following for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

-- Teresa Mariani is a freelance writer based on the Central Coast who'll drive an hour to get to Chef Rick's almost anytime, and likes to eat at Las Cazuelas after shopping.

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