By Teresa Mariani

	One of Solvang's three windmills

If it wasn't for the Washington Post, things might look a lot different today in Solvang - a Danish-style village smack in the middle of California's Spanish Mission country.

Though it might seem odd to see windmills and half-timbered buildings sprouting up tin the middle of cowboy country, Solvang really is a Danish village. Actually a Danish-American village. The town of 5,800 was founded in 1910, when a group of Danish immigrants looking to start a town and school bought a chunk of an old Mexican Land Grant Rancho, Rancho San Carlos de Jonata, next to Mission Santa Ines.

The Danes took one look at the Santa Ynez Valley ranchland, rolling hills, oaks and meadows and decided they'd found the perfect place. The initial group of Danish-American settlers bought the ranch and began arriving in 1911. They called their new home "Solvang," Danish for "sunny fields."

Danish immigrants and Danish-American settlers quickly came streaming into Solvang from all over the country, and the town grew. The town and its Danish 'Folk School' were such a success that the settlers were able to build Atterdag College on a hill overlooking the town in 1914.

Back then, aside from the festivals, dances, and plays put on by the settlers regularly in vibrant Danish costumes, Solvang pretty much looked like another American Farm town to those just passing through.

Shoppers on Second Street in Solvang

The World finds Solvang
Things changed after World War II. That's when a Washington Post article came out, telling all about Solvang's Danish settlers, its folk college, its festivals, and authentic Danish bakeries and restaurants. Soon after, travelers started arriving.

"It was decided that the town should capitalize on its Danish heritage, and hopefully prosper," explains Marilyn Cronk, director of the town's Elverhøj (pronounced "elverhoy") Museum.

It worked. Since the 1940s, Solvang's downtown has been steadily rebuilt into a Danish-style village. Solvang now draws between 1.5 and 2 million visitors a year. They come from all across North America, Europe and Asia. Stroll the streets in downtown Solvang, any day, and you can hear Japanese and German speakers, and plenty of British and Australian accents - and Danish ones too.

At the Elverhøj Museum on the south side of town, "We do get a lot of busloads of Japanese tourists, and people from all over the world," Cronk says.

Even if you visited Solvang in the 1980s or early 1990s, you're liable to find downtown Solvang looks even more authentically Danish. Most of 16 blocks of downtown Solvang have been rebuilt. You can find cobblestone sidewalks and crosswalks. There are steep-roofed, solidly built shops with exposed timbers and wall beams reminiscent of a Danish or German village. A few are single-story with steep 'thatched' roofs built to resemble Danish country houses.

Solvang is a trip any time of year, but especially in fall, winter and spring. With its 'Copenhagen' street scenes and horse-drawn 'Honen' (trolleys), Solvang makes the perfect Holiday Season stop. Fall's crisp temperatures and colored leaves also make strolling there fun, and in spring the city bursts with flowers everywhere - along with the green hillsides. It's easy to see why the Danish settlers came here in droves at the turn of the 20th Century.

	The Heidelberg Inn - Family owned for more than two decades - offers a beer garden and outdoor cafe

Things to Do
What to do in Solvang in the 21st Century? Start out at the Visitor's Center on Copenhagen Drive, at the base of the city parking lot kitty-corner from Second Street. You can pick up free walking maps of downtown, and there's always a friendly staffer on duty to help you. There's also an entire wall display full of more maps and brochures covering just about everything to do in Solvang and the Santa Ynez Valley.

After picking up your map, here are a few recommendations:

Eat. You can't go more than a few steps in Solvang without running into a restaurant, bakery or sweet shop. The town is famous in California for its cookies and pastries, and many of the pastry shops will ship goods anywhere, on order. Try the Danish Mill Bakery & Coffee Shop on Copenhagen Drive for a sure bet. The Danish Mill offers a dizzying variety of cookies, pastries and breads. Try the shortbread walnut bars or raspberry bars - or Raspberry Danish. You can also sit in the coffee shop for a meal and just breathe in the bakery aroma. This is not a place for dieters.

The 'Town Dish' of Solvang seems to be Aebleskivers: two large round fried pastry balls topped with jam and whipped cream or powdered sugar. They're not 'lite' by any stretch of the imagination, but they're sinfully good. Try them at the Red Viking Restaurant on Copenhagen Drive, a favorite with locals.

The Belgian Café on Copenhagen Drive is also a spot for locals for breakfast and lunch. Clean, bright and cheery, it's waffle haven but also serves up 'American' style sandwiches, salads and soups.

Kids (of all ages) will love Ingeborg's Danish Chocolates & Ice Cream on Copenhagen Drive. Ingeborg's has an authentic soda fountain counter, complete with twirling stools. It's the perfect place to sit and enjoy a milkshake or soda; you can grab a table there and people-watch too.

The scene at Copenhagen Drive and First Street, where you can find a wine tasting room in this replica of an old Danish farmhouse.

Shop: Downtown Solvang has more than 200 shops, including 69 antique shops. Solvang's antique shops have a reputation for offering "the good stuff" - Spode china and silver place settings, glassworks, jewelry and furniture. The town also has outlet shops for two famous plate makers: Pfalzgraf and, of course, Dansk. You can also find everything from authentic Danish costumes for toddlers (Elna's Dress Shop on Copenhagen Drive) to garden gnomes to books leather goods to banners and flags. In fact, Solvang seems to be banner central: plenty of shops sell windsocks and garden banners and flags (including, of course, Danish garden flags and Danish flag windsocks).

Go Danish: Visit the Hans Christian Andersen Museum. The Museum is at 1680 Mission Drive, inside The Book Loft. The museum features exhibits and displays about the beloved Danish author's life and work. Displays include original artwork by Andersen, original poetry and letters written by the author, photos of Andersen, and early and first editions of Andersen's books. The Museum also has a collection of Andersen books illustrated by a number of different artists - and beautifully bound Andersen texts in Danish. Admission is free.

	The Elverhoj Museum - a replica of an 1800s Danish farmhouse - is a must-see for history lovers

Nordic history buffs will love the Elverhøj Museum, 1642 Elverhoy Way. The museum is nestled on a residential street just a few blocks south of downtown; take Second Street to get there. The museum is a replica of an 1800s Danish farmhouse, built by Danish artist Viggo Brandt-Erichsen and his wife Martha in the late 1940s. Erichsen wanted to re-create a farmhouse like the one where he was raised in Denmark - right down to the tole paintings on the kitchen walls.

Martha Brandt-Erichsen gave the house to a local heritage group to be used as a museum after she died. Inside there are displays on Solvang's history, as well as the history of Denmark. Check out 1800s clothing, furniture and artifacts from Denmark, as well as antique photos and lace. The museum houses even older artifacts - including thousand year-old Viking axe heads and daggers, and also a gallery featuring rotating art displays. The Elverhøj Museum is open Wednesdays through Sundays 1-4 p.m. year-round. Admission is free, but a $2 donation is requested.

Go Mexican: Visit Old Mission Santa Ines. The Mission is a working church, with Mass daily, Saturdays and Sundays. It also offers tours and a gift shop. Visit the Mission at 1760 Mission Drive. You can stroll there from Copenhagen Square and enter through the back garden gate; the Visitor's Center staff will be happy to point out the route on your free map.

Bicycle: Rent a 4-wheel Surrey Bicycle, a tandem cycle or traditional bicycle and see Solvang and the surrounding area while pedaling. Get them at Surrey Cycle Rentals, 475 First Street No. 8 (just off Solvang Park, behind the Visitor's Center.) Prices range from $15 to $30, depending on the kind of bike and how long you rent it.

Have Fun - just about anywhere. And don't forget those Aebleskivers.

Teresa Mariani is a writer based on the Central Coast.

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